One of the primary considerations when choosing a planner that will work well for you is the planner’s binding style. There are a number of options, and they all have different strengths and weaknesses. You may or may not find a single style that’s perfect, but you do want to at least look for the option that best balances the strengths and weaknesses to meet your particular needs.
Let’s take a look at what each style has going for it.
Ring Bound Planner (Looseleaf)
Ring-bound — or looseleaf — planners might be just about the most traditional option on the list. They’re available from classic “day planner” companies like Day-Timer, Day Runner, and Franklin Covey, as well as lesser-known or specialty brands. Given the nature of looseleaf, they’re also an easy option to “DIY” or put together yourself.
Most of the time, ring-bound planners are available in a larger size, equivalent to a standard school binder, and in what I call “half-size,” to accommodate sheets of paper somewhere in the range of 5.5×8.5 inches or 6×9 inches. Sometimes they come in smaller specialty sizes, as well.
The binders for these planners may have three rings, but often have six or seven, so be aware if you’re planning to mix-and-match components, and make sure they’re compatible. Pages with “too many” holes can often go in a binder with fewer rings (assuming they line up correctly), but pages with too few holes won’t fit in a binder with more rings unless you do some hole-punching of your own.
This style of planner is about the most flexible. It’s easy to add, remove, or rearrange pages. Even custom pages are pretty easy to add. They’re widely available, in a wide price range. And if you want to do it yourself, supplies are inexpensive and easy to come by.
If you use standard-size binders for your planner, the pages are interchangeable with your other binders, as well. Some people might appreciate the flexibility, for instance, to move prayer requests between the day planner and a quiet time binder, move recipes from a recipe binder into the day planner on grocery day, etc.
As long as your binder is good quality, so the rings don’t gap, the pages generally turn easily inside a binder, and the binding style doesn’t cause a problem unless, perhaps, you drop it hard and it pops open.
The biggest downsize I’ve found to this style of planner is bulk. A binder tends to be thick for the number of pages it can hold, because of the way the rings function.
These typically also can’t be folded all the way back on themselves.
A large proportion of those using this style of planner prefer the more compact “half sheet” size. If you’re DIY-ing a planner like this, you might be interested in some of the following components. (I like the Avery durable binders, myself.)
Avery Mini Durable Protect & Store View Binder
Avery Mini Durable Binder, Bright FloralSamsill Binder, Vintage Book StyleAvery Style Edge Insertable Plastic DividersSamsill 100 Mini Sheet ProtectorsAvery Mini Monthly and Weekly CalendarAvery Mini Snap-In Bookmark DividersAvery Mini Business Card PagesC-Line Poly Mini Size Binder Pocket
Flexibility: 
Compactness:
Folds Back for Writing:
Ease/Affordability to Obtain*:
*For all planner styles, the sky’s the limit. You can spend big bucks “tricking out” any planner, but this ranking is based on what the average person would need to get started.
Spiralbound Planner (Wire/Coil)
This style of planner, which may be called wirebound, coil-bound, or spiral-bound, is probably the second most traditional style of binding. Spiral, or coil, binding (which is usually plastic) and wire binding are not identical styles of binding, but they’re pretty much functionally equivalent.
These planners are also available from the “big name” traditional planner companies, in a variety of sizes and formats, as well as from some independent producers. “Academic planners” intended for students planning their school year are often coil-bound or wirebound. The famous Erin Condren planners are coil-bound (except when they’re softcover; see below).
(Side note: Yes, I’m being totally inconsistent here. There doesn’t seem to be much consensus on whether these words should be hyphenated, separated, or unified, although what I’m seeing most commonly is wirebound, spiral-bound, and coil bound. Go figure.)
Back to the topic at hand. One of the strongest selling points for this style of planner is that they’re very compact. These binding methods don’t demand a lot of extra space in the binding, as compared to the thickness of the stack of pages, so the spine doesn’t add much bulk.
They can also be folded all the way in half while in use.
On the flip side, these are just about the most inflexible of the bunch. They come in the styles they come in, and that’s that. You generally can’t add custom pages. In most cases, you can’t add pages at all, although Day-Timer does have some limited options for add-in pages you can pop into their wirebound planners, and if you really need to, you can “hack” them to add custom pages by gluing or taping something on. But you can’t just easily add outside pages like you can with a looseleaf binder.
The one significant difference between a wirebound and a spiral- or coil-bound is that you may also periodically have some trouble with the coil wanting to work its way out of a spiral-bound planner. It’s generally just a minor annoyance and you can twist it back into place, but it’s something to be aware of.
Flexibility:
Compactness:
Folds Back for Writing:
Ease/Affordability to Obtain:
Disc Binding
Disc binding is a relatively new option, but it’s taken the planner world by storm because it combines some of the most desirable traits of several other methods. Perhaps the most well-known disc-bound planners are Happy Planners (pictured here), which come in complete sets, but also can be purchased in parts and pieces to build your own.
You can also find disc binding systems from companies like Levenger and…Staples? I believe the ARC brand is owned by Staples. And certain components are available from “off” brands, as well, especially from Asia.
In case you’re not familiar with this binding style, disc binding is a form of looseleaf binding where instead of having the rings open, the holes are open. The “spine” edge of the paper is punched with a series of mushroom-shaped holes, and then hollow discs are popped into those holes. The paper wraps around the “lip” of the disc the same way snap-in dividers snap onto traditional binder rings. (It’s similar to a Rolodex, if you remember those.)
Like a ring binder, these planners have complete flexibility in adding, removing, and rearranging pages. Adding your own custom pages is a little trickier, because the punch required is specialized and a little harder (and pricier) to get than a standard hole punch, but if you do have a punch, this is also pretty easy.
If you’re starting with a commercial planner and adding your own pages, make note of the fact that some of these are weird sizes, so your custom pages might need trimming before you punch them to add to the planner.
Because of the design of the discs, the pages can rotate around them 360°, so the planner can be folded over completely flat.
However, that brings me to the biggest downside I found to this style, apart from being a little more expensive and harder to find parts for — the pages don’t slide around the discs very easily if the paper is too thin. With a commercial planner, this shouldn’t be an issue because the designer will have already taken it into consideration. But if you’re making your own — or if you’re adding pages — be sure you print on thick enough paper.
If it’s too thin, the paper flexes too much, so it doesn’t want to slide around all of the rings evenly and simultaneously, so things get stuck, and it’s unwieldy and annoying. Standard printer paper is 20lb bond, and it’s really too thin to work well. The general consensus online seems to be that at least 28lb is necessary, and 32lb is best. You’ll want to ensure you have a nice thick, stiff cover, too. That really helps with the smoothness of page turns, too.
Disc-bound planners are in the medium range with regard to bulk. The discs do take up more space relative to the overall book thickness than something like a wirebound planner. However, because it’s only the rings that have added thickness, it isn’t as much bulk altogether as what you get with a ring binder.
If you’re new to this type of binding, you are probably also wondering if the different brands are interchangeable. The answer is mostly, yes. The hole shapes may vary subtly from one brand to another, so it’s possible the pages may not turn quite as smoothly if you’re mixing certain brands. But they’re pretty similar, so all the major brands should work together in terms of the holes and discs being compatible. (Obviously, you’ll need to check for yourself that the overall page size corresponds.)
The Happy Planner 9 Hole Paper Punch For Disc-Bound PlannersStaples 324688 Arc System Desktop Punch 8 Sheet CapacityTUL Custom Note-Taking System Discbound Hole Punch, SilverLevenger Circa Universal Sturdy Desk Punch Paper Punches
Happy Planner Teal DiscsLevenger Circa Disc Office Book Ring, 1 1/2Staples Arc System DiscsTalia Discbound, Metallic Discs, Copper
Flexibility:
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Ease/Affordability to Obtain:
Comb Binding
Comb binding is not a common planner style. In fact, I’m not aware of any commercially-available comb-bound planners. However, I’ve personally found that comb-binding is a good middle ground for me, and it might be one you want to consider, too, if you’re going to make your own.
You’ll see in my rankings below that comb binding doesn’t really excel at anything. It isn’t the worst at anything, either. It’s moderate across the board which, for me, was the least sacrifice of important characteristics.
You probably already know what comb binding is — a spine made of plastic prongs that slip through rectangular holes in the pages and then wrap around before the ends tuck under the remainder of the spine piece. We already have a comb-binding machine, because I use it for binding schoolwork and things like that, so it was pretty easy for me to punch my custom pages and slip them onto a binding comb.
If you have access to a binding machine and punch, the flexibility is moderate with this binding option. It isn’t practical to add, remove, or rearrange pages on a daily or even near-daily basis. However, things can be moved, removed, or added, which means custom pages can be included (in fact, pretty much all the pages will probably need to be custom), and you can minimize bulk by periodically removing pages you no longer need regular access to.
A binding comb requires a little extra “buffer” space to keep pages from popping off the comb, but not as much as discs or rings. It’s almost as compact as a wirebound planner, but not quite.
It doesn’t wrap around quite all the way, but it comes fairly close, especially if you don’t keep an overly thick planner to start with.
Expense…varies. If you don’t already have comb-binding equipment, it can be pretty pricey to get started. If you do already have comb-binding equipment, this can be incredibly inexpensive. If you’re really interested in this option, but can’t invest in a comb binder, check with a local office store to see if they happen to have one available for customer use. (Our local Staples has a few “big” supplies like this available in a do-it-yourself area.)
In my own planner, I swap out the daily pages every couple of months, and generally make any other relevant changes then, too, in case that gives you an idea of how often you might need the equipment.
If you don’t plan to do a lot of binding of the same general thickness as your planner, check with the office supply store (or printer) about buying a single binding comb, too. They’ll usually sell you just one for just a couple dollars, saving you from buying a whole boxful. If it’s longer than what you need (if you aren’t using full-size notebook paper), you can trim the end of the comb off with scissors.
With this style, you’ll want a nice thick, stiff cover, but the paper weight is not nearly as important as it is with a disc binding.
Flexibility:
Compactness:
Folds Back for Writing:
Ease/Affordability to Obtain:
Perfect Bound Planner (Paperback/Hardcover/”Bullet Journal”)
This category of planner is basically anything that’s bound like a regular book. It might be softcover/paperback, or it might be hardcover — or maybe something sort of in-between — but it’s a book with a traditional binding.
There are some commercially-available planners that come in this style, like some of the Erin Condren planners. But most often nowadays, these are blank notebooks — often with dot grid paper — used for bullet journaling. Bullet journaling can be done with any binding style, but a traditionally-bound book is generally better suited to bullet journaling (and its spin-offs/expansions) than traditional printed planner pages.
Binding-wise, this is a completely inflexible option. You can’t add or remove pages (other than tearing them out), and you can’t move pages around. If you’re bullet journaling, calling it completely inflexible is a bit misleading, though. You still don’t have the option to rearrange pages or move things into sections, but if you’re creating your own pages in the first place, there’s a good amount of flexibility in what you put where. (You might find tabs like this particularly helpful for sectioning things off a little.)
It’s one of the most compact options, with its only possible rival being wire binding.
Whether or not it folds back on itself depends on the specific notebook you choose. Most won’t — at least not without damaging the binding, possibly leading to pages falling out.
This can be an incredibly affordable option and very accessible, as notebooks/blank books can be found almost anywhere. Some people prefer to splurge on high-end notebooks with great covers and amazing paper. Totally up to you. If you’re bullet journaling rather than using a pre-printed planner, this may carry a much higher time cost, though, than other options.
The Bullet Journal Method: Track the Past, Order the Present, Design the FutureBeyond Bullets: Creative Journaling Ideas to Customize Your Personal Productivity SystemMinimalism Art, Classic Notebook Journal, A5 Size 5 X 8.3 inches, Yellow, Dotted Grid Page
Flexibility:
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Folds Back for Writing: (Some bound books may be an exception — at least partially.)
Ease/Affordability to Obtain:
Loose Cards
Although it may not strike most people as an obvious planner option — and it isn’t technically a “binding” at all — individual cards present some interesting possibilities. There are (at least) a few different ways they can be configured. The most “systematic” versions of this style I’ve seen are ScanCards and the Hipster PDA.
ScanCards were a commercial product; for a whiel they were off the market, but it seems they’ve been revived. The system was comprised of small, square cards which were slotted into a holder in such a way that they overlapped — imagine a cascade of sticky notes. In fact, that’s basically what the ScanCard system was — rows of “sticky notes” that, instead of actually being sticky, were displayed by means of a holder with rows of slots.
The card size (and, possibly, overlap) will not be the same, but you can create a similar system using pages designed for business cards, photographs, etc., and appropriately-sized cards.
The Hipster PDA is a fun name for a method created (I think) by a former member of the DIY Planner forum I used to frequent. (It seems to be defunct, but you can still read the archives.) At its most basic, this is a stack of index cards held together by a binder clip. This minimalist option supposedly fit in a hip pocket — hence the play on words.
It eventually evolved into a variety of templates that could be printed onto cards, much like more traditional planners have multiple page options. But the overall appeal is its simplicity.
Of course, completely loose cards are always an option (although potentially a messy one), as are technically-not-loose options like index cards in a card binder, or cards of your chosen size on a single binder ring.
Cards are incredibly flexible and widely available. They’re also very compact, although that can change if you have a more involved system of containing them. There’s no need to flip them around because an individual card is already completely flat.
That makes these sound the like the ideal option. However, individual cards have the unique downsides of being difficult to keep organized (especially on the go) and having the potential to get scattered, which makes them an impractical choice for many people, especially if they require quite a few.
Flexibility:
Compactness: (May vary, depending on what method you use for storing the cards.)
Folds Back for Writing: n/a
Ease/Affordability to Obtain:
Miscellaneous Options
I won’t try to rank them, because they all vary, but there are also a handful of miscellaneous options that might suit some users well.
Individual binder rings are one such option. These typically work better with cards or large tags than with regular paper because of the lack of support for the pages, but if you just need something small, they can work. Or, in a pinch, you can use several loose binder rings to hold together a stack of pages. It doesn’t work as well as an actual binder, because the lack of support makes the pages difficult to turn, but it technically functions.
Charles Leonard Loose Leaf Rings
Binding spines are another option. These look — and function — like three ring binders without the cover. They aren’t intended to be mounted inside a cover. You can get them for the full length of a cover, but they often come as mini spines that are meant to be used two or three to a book. They work with smaller holes than three-ring binders — more like the holes for a spiral binding.
Swingline GBC Binding SpinesChris-Wang Metal 3-Ring Binding Spines
Also ideal for use with this type of hole punching are small plastic book rings. Technically, I suppose these are a variation on binder rings, but they seem to be used a little differently. Most of these are pretty tiny compared to the typical binder ring; they look a bit like someone took a coil binding and cut it up into individual rings. These rings lock closed and can open up again, but it doesn’t seem very practical to open and close them regularly because you need them running all the way up the spine and that’s a lot of rings to open. They’re more like an inexpensive way to bind your own notebook.
Haiabei 162 Pcs Plastic Multi-Color Book Rings
Refillable travelers’ notebook with multiple booklets. Some refillable journals are made in a style like this one, with an elastic strap to hold the refill booklet in place. One of these straps can be made to hold several small booklets side-by-side by looping them together (and some journals allow additional straps to be added). (See the videos below for more information about adding inserts.) This would create a sort of “hybrid” system, where technically it’s bound books, but since there are several smaller ones grouped together, they allow for more organization and rearranging than a single bound book.
[UPDATE: There’s now a company making planners, specifically, in this style. Take a look at Tula XII.]
Leather Writing Journal Notebook, RefillableBiG V Refillable Leather JournalPack of 13 Travelers Notebook Elastic BandsTravelers Notebook Accessories KitRefillable Leather Journal Travelers Notebook with Accessories
These tips are pretty useful, thanks for the post!