[NOTE: This post was built out with images on Polyvore to illustrate the process. Unfortunately, when Polyvore became defunct, all of those images just disappeared, and they’ll all need to be reconstructed from scratch.]

Today is Secondhand Wardrobe Day.  (One of them.  There’s another Secondhand Wardrobe Day later in the year.)  I’m all for secondhand shopping, but it can get expensive and wasteful if you don’t have a plan.  I guess that probably goes for any clothes shopping, but there’s a temptation to buy things that are a “good deal” because they’re only available for a short time and/or in limited quantity, and end up realizing later that they were a mistake.

The Plan

I’ll be the first to admit that I’m still working out the details of how to make a “one-size-fits-all” wardrobe plan.  The classic “capsule wardrobe”  is a great idea!  The problem is, it’s so specific in naming the pieces one should buy, that it doesn’t really fit all body shapes/style types, and sometimes is so color-specific that it only works for a few people.  So let’s start over, shall we?

Step 1: Decide on What Colors to Use for Your Capsule

Unfortunately, most capsule wardrobe planners tell you to use black, white, and a color.  The idea behind this is sound, but the execution is all wrong.  Contrary to popular belief, not everyone looks good in black — or even in white.  But everyone will have a flattering dark neutral and a flattering light neutral (a “white equivalent,” if you will).

If you know your seasonal colors, that’s a great place to start!   Another great tool — whether you know your color “season” or not, is to use David Zyla‘s method for determining your “true colors.”  These are a specific set of colors that accomplish certain psychological effects, within the range of colors found within your own coloring.  Properly identified, they will all be flattering.  (There’s a good chance you can find Zyla’s book at your library.  But you might find yourself wanting to buy a copy once you’ve read it. 😉 )  I recommend starting here so you can be confident you’re choosing colors for your core wardrobe that you’ll be happy with, but, regardless, you still need to choose colors for the wardrobe capsule!

Let’s start with three colors and expand, shall we?  We’ll want the dark neutral (that’s color #1), light neutral (#2), and a “color-color” (#3).  Obviously, since this is a “capsule” wardrobe, we need to be sure they’ll all go together.  A few tips:

1. Keep in mind that your dark neutral doesn’t have to be technically a neutral.  There are some deep and/or desaturated colors that can function very nicely as neutrals on some people.  For instance, deep burgundy or teal.
2. Also keep in mind that “dark”  is relative.  If your overall coloring is extremely light, your darkest neutral may be a mid-range color.  Sage green functions as a neutral on some blondes!
3. Your dark neutral should be a “sober” enough color that you’d be comfortable wearing it to something like a funeral.  (Again, keep in mind how it “reads” on you.  If you’re very fair, it will not take as deep a color to read as “dark.”  Whereas a truly dark color may just overwhelm you.)
4. For your neutral #2, you probably want something that will serve as your version of white.  If true, bright white is a good color for you, feel free to use white.  But if your coloring is warmer or softer, you may need a more golden and/or muted color.  If your coloring is very deep, there’s a chance you may need a slightly darker color.
5. For your “color-color,”  choose just that — something with color!  Be sure it goes well with your neutrals.  (If your neutrals are warm brown and ivory, don’t choose a cool, rosy pink to accompany them.)
6. Also be sure that it’s a color you’d be comfortable wearing in a variety of settings.  You can expand your color range later, but the purpose of the wardrobe capsule is to form your “base,”  so you want to choose a color you’re not going to panic over putting on in the mornings if you’re going to work, to church, etc.

For my “sample” wardrobe (which is notably easier to put together, since it’s just on the screen and money is no object!), I’m going to use warm charcoal, ivory, and coral pink.

Step 2: Build a Neutral Base

Choosing separates will, of course, give you greater flexibility so, if you can, try to stick with them for now.  Most wardrobe planners recommend a 3-piece suit.  I don’t think this is right for everyone’s lifestyle, or for every style type.  But you can approximate the concept by choosing pants, a skirt, and a jacket/cardigan/other outside layer in your dark neutral.

Adapt this as necessary, of course.  If you don’t wear pants, leave them off the list.  Choose the cut of skirt and the type of outer garment based on your lifestyle and your body’s needs.  Check the styles and make sure that the upper layer will go with both pairs of bottoms.  (This is where I always seem to louse things up.  I buy clothes that all coordinate, color-wise — but have style clashes between tops and bottoms.  Or the undergarments don’t work properly with the outer garments.)  Mine might look something like this.  (The two pairs of pants are two alternative options.  If I could only go with one, I’d probably choose the boot-cut, because they’re slightly less informal.  I might be inclined to do both, though.)

 

See how this is not at all a “suit”?  But it has the same general effect in that I can wear either pair of bottoms with the “jacket” and any shirt I like.

Step 3: Add Tops

Now you want to add some basic layering tops.  Traditionally, this might be some short of “shell,”  but use whatever works — could be tank tops, shells, nice short-sleeved t-shirts, cowls.  Whatever.  Each shirt should be able to be worn alone, but also work well under something else.  You need one in the light neutral and one in the color.  I like the idea, personally, of also having one in the dark neutral — this way it can be worn with the skirt for a “dress” effect.

 

Step 4: Check for Essential Accessories and Undergarments

You will, of course, require shoes, and probably a bag/purse.  I would recommend getting these in your darker neutral to start.  Depending on the sort of bottoms you chose, you might require a belt; I’d choose the dark neutral for that, as well.  And you will need to be sure you have undergarments that will work with all of these pieces.

Most of you will want some basic jewelry in one or two of these colors, as well.  (I’d probably start with earrings and a necklace in the dark neutral, if you need it for classiness/formality, and in your color for — well, color.

At this point, you should already have some options (‘though you’ll have to do laundry twice a week if you want a clean shirt every day!)  Let’s number our pieces.  Pants = 1; Skirt = 2; Jacket = 3; dark neutral top = 4; light neutral top = 5; colored top = 5.  With just these five pieces, we have the following outfit options:

1 + 4
1 + 5
1 + 6
2 + 4
2 + 5
2 + 6
1 + 4 + 3
1 + 5 + 3
1 + 6 + 3
2 + 4 + 3
2 + 5 + 3
2 + 6 + 3

Changes in accessories can make some significant differences in the styling of each outfit, too!

Step 5: Expand to the “Second Tier” of Your Wardrobe

The next three things I would add to this basic wardrobe, for forming a sort of “second tier”  are:

1. A feminine dress in a print that incorporates at least two of the core wardrobe colors.
2. Additional tops in coordinating colors (and/or prints that incorporate the colors you’ve chosen).
3. Accessories in coordinating colors.  (I recommend starting with 1-2 specific colors.)

(I would probably also add a pair of jeans, if I’d chosen dressier slacks for the first pair.  But the dark neutral pants I chose happen to be jeans.)

The dress can be worn alone, or with the jacket/sweater.  (Depending on the style of the dress, you may have other options, as well, such as wearing one of your tops over it so it acts as a skirt.)

The tops should interchange with the current bottoms.

The accessories will give you more variety in the “finished” look of your outfits.  Let’s take a look.

Here I’ve added just three more major clothing pieces: a dress with a print incorporating the core colors, and two more tops in two “new”  colors.  I’ve also added a handful of accessories in the three “color-colors.”  Can you start to imagine how many possibilities this wardrobe has?

To the options we had before, we can now add:

7 (dress)
7 + 3
1 + 8 (4th top – in this case, teal)
1 + 8 + 3
2 + 8
2 + 8 + 3
1 + 9 (5th top – in this case, yellow)
1 + 9 + 3
2 + 9
2 + 9 + 3

Plus a whole variety of ways the additional color from the accessories can be mixed and matched.

Step 6: Expand Some More

Now that you have your wardrobe core, you can continue to expand on it.  Start by adding whatever pieces make most sense to you, for your needs.  I think more bottoms would be my next move!  If you live where it’s very cold, you might choose to move on next to heavier layers.  Or maybe you just want some more accessories to make things more fun.  Just make sure that whatever you get will work with several other pieces already in your wardrobe.  (If you’re buying necklaces, check necklines!  That’s another area where I often end up with mismatches — my necklaces are right, color-wise, but the wrong lengths to go with my tops’  necklines.)

Your Turn

Make a list!  If there are pieces you need, put them on a running list so you know what to look for at the secondhand stores.  And by all means, if you have any tips for wardrobe planning, share them in the comments! 🙂