I have to preface this by saying that I don’t think it was my original idea. I seem to remember seeing something like this several years ago. When I went to look for it, though, to make one, I couldn’t find it. So if anyone knows who the credit should go to for this idea, please let me know!
The purpose of this book is provide a “quiet book,” and introduce colors, in all their variations. (Well, okay, maybe not all – but this is for learning that green is more than just the color of the “green” crayon.) If you use fabrics with varying textures, that will add to the book’s appeal and benefit for its owner. If you really want to add a sound component, you can encase a bit of diaper or baby wipe packaging (or “official” crinkle film) inside the pages; I prefer for my quiet books to stay completely quiet so they can be used in church or similar situations.
You will need:
- a variety of fabrics, in solid colors or monochromatic prints
- printable fabric*
- color printer (that corresponds to the fabric)*
- Microsoft Word, newer than ’97*
- color names file
- ruler
- scissors
- thread
- sewing machine, or hand-sewing supplies
*You could fabric-paint the words on if you prefer. Otherwise, if you don’t have access to a color printer and corresponding materials, you will need to figure out an alternative to the color names step yourself.
Here’s what you do:
STEP 1: Prepare your color name blocks: Download the file above, open it in Microsoft Word, and print it onto your printable paper. If the fabric packaging tells you to do anything to set the ink, do it. (If it has an iron-on backing, don’t heat-set it!)
STEP 2: Cut out your squares. You will need five squares of each color (not counting the color name squares). They are 3-1/2″ by 3-1/2″. Choose your fabrics and cut these out. Cut out the color name squares to correspond. (Theoretically, the lines should be in the right places, but they don’t seem to have come out quite right.)
STEP 3: Sort your fabrics. You want to be sure you have what you need, and that you are pleased with the variation. If not, repeat steps 2 and 3 until you’re happy with it.
STEP 4: Lay out your pages. Each page should be a 2×3 block, containing five solids or prints and one color name square. Keep in mind that each one will also have a facing page (See diagram A), and make sure the names fit into the scheme where you want them.

STEP 5: Begin to piece the pages: With right sides together, sew all of the left pieces of a page together. All of the seam allowances should be 1/4″. Press the seams open. (Remember to be careful around those color name blocks if they’re adhesive!)
STEP 6: Finish piecing the page: Repeat step 5 for the right pieces of the page. After pressing the seams open, sew the left column to the right column and, once again, press the seams. Repeat steps 5 and 6 for each page of the book.
STEP 7: Create a cover: Cut fabric to the appropriate overall size. (6-1/2 x 9-1/2 for the front or back) Then sew the title to the the front cover with a satin stitch or decorative stitch. (Mine was adhesive fabric, so I ironed it on to hold it in place, then stitched around it with a decorative stitch.)
STEP 8: Begin to assemble the book: This is where it gets a tad tricky. Referring to Diagram B below, sew each page (right sides together) to the appropriate “facing” page. (Note that this will not necessarily be the page it will face in the finished book.

STEP 9: Referring again to Diagram B, place each sewn-together pair of pages on top of its “match,” with right sides together. Use the same 1/4″ seam allowance you’ve been using throughout, but leave an opening for turning. This can be wherever you like, but I like to leave it where the bottom of the “spine” will be.
STEP 10: Clip the corners (as shown), and turn the pages right-side out. Press, being sure the raw edges are tucked under. (At this point, you should be able to stop worrying about any adhesive that may be on your printable fabric.
STEP 11: Sew the turning holes shut. I like to use a ladder stitch so it’s well hidden, but you can do it however you prefer.
STEP 12: Stack the pages in their proper order, and sew right up the center. Be sure to reinforce the ends of this line of stitching.
You’re all done!
If you like, you can add interfacing or batting in step 9. I like for the book to be thinner, though, as I feel it goes together better at the end. This will depend, in part, on how sturdy your fabrics are.














You should do this slowly on video for folks like me!
That would require greater aptitude with the video camera than I currently have! (I can, possibly, record it. But then I can’t get it onto the computer!)